Once in a while, if you’ve been raised in America, you must down a greasy hamburger. For some people, it’s once a week; for us, once a month.
Then there are french fries. We like them, and we like them fat (if they’re cooked right, a la The Faded Rose), made of sweet potatoes (a la The Root) or skinny. Let’s talk about the skinny.
The shoestring fries at Freddy’s Frozen Custard & Steakburgers are the best chain restaurant french fries — or maybe anyone’s french fries — we’ve had (especially since McDonald’s cut out the lard). You get a nice pile of them with the combo meals or you can buy them on the side. Happily, we did not happen to have the to-go menu on hand when we ordered;
But let’s put talk of calories aside. You don’t go to Freddy’s looking for kale or Omega-3 fatty-acid-laden mackerel. Nutrition is not at the top of your list. You go to Freddy’s for the smashed steakburgers, their lace-like slips showing on the sides of your bun. You go to Freddy’s for the frozen custard concretes and shakes and malts and the hot fudge toppings, and the Snickers pieces and, if you are still in short pants, Gummi worms, et cetera. And the fries. Think of Freddy’s as an addition to the spectrum of candy-apple red nostalgia joints like Steak ‘n’ Shake or the In’ n’ Out Burger, with a wholesome Colwich, Kan., origin story.
Four of us went for an early lunch — 11:15 a.m. — last week, and had to stand in a line about 10 deep to order. From a kitchen packed with no fewer than 15 employees in constant motion, the food arrived quickly and as ordered, though the place seemed to emanate more of a chaotic “opening week, still working out the kinks” vibe than the well-oiled machines it’s akin to. We blame some bad design — the huge menu sprawls overhead as you order at the counter, and the visual organization of the items isn’t exactly intuitive.
One of us went light on the steakburger, ordering only one patty, and heavy on the concrete, ordering the regular size, which, believe us, is as much ice cream as should be legal in the middle of a steamy, drowsy summer day in Arkansas. Let it be said that the steakburgers are delicious. According to the Arkansas Times’ Office of Food Research, the smashed burger offers that umami of
One of our team ordered the Freddy’s Hatch Green Chile Double, a burger topped with chilies grown in the Hatch Valley of New Mexico (you can get the chilies on a hot dog, too). The Hatch must be new: The cashier was momentarily confused by the order — who wouldn’t
Back to that nutrition thing: In a sop to those
And that’s not all! There are hot dogs on the menu, a combo hot dog and hamburger meal, a grilled chicken breast sandwich and, yes, a veggie burger. (May we suggest Big Orange if a veggie burger is what you’re looking for at lunch?) You can also add bacon to your sandwiches, chili to your dogs, chili to your fries.
Freddy’s accommodated our desire to have malt stirred into our vanilla concrete, which was nice of the folks in the kitchen to do. The Freddy’s regular among us goes for the turtle concrete, which, be still my heart, includes hot fudge, hot
Four of us ate about as well as we could and the tab came to $42, which isn’t bad. A second Freddy’s opens soon at The Promenade at Chenal shopping center.
Freddy’s Frozen Custard and Steakburgers
4305 E. McCain Blvd. (next to The Home Depot)
The custard cookie sandwich, made with Oreo or Nutter Butter wafers, looked mighty tempting. Also, you can buy the frozen custard by the pint for $3.50 or quart for $5.99. Freddy’s also sells custard cakes for $19.99.
10:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Sunday through Friday, 10:30 a.m. to 11:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday.
There’s a drive-through window, or you can order take-out inside. No alcohol, credit cards accepted.