We have long been a supporter of the Southwest Little Rock bastion of authentic Mexican food. Not once have we been disappointed by a food truck south of 65th Street. However, there exists another
Located at the corner of a five-way intersection, Las Delicias is a fairly unassuming Mercado-plus-restaurant combo north of the railroad tracks. It has in spades what the rest of Levy has, too: a subtle charm and old-fashioned quality, like
The restaurant has the classic trappings of a “hole in the wall”: humble seating, hodgepodge decor, cheap prices and very, very good eats. We sat in margarine-yellow contour booths, drank many $2 Coronas and ordered an enormous amount of food. A new-school jukebox played Mexican ballads and cumbia tunes. As we started to inquire over the menu, we noticed a single pothos houseplant encircling the
The salsa was served cold in a tall squeeze bottle. It had a tomato and cilantro
Tacos ($1.25 each) are standard street-style, a corn tortilla doubled up, with onion and cilantro and plenty of meat choices:
The tamales ($2 each) are plenty moist, generous in serving size and filled with pulled pork. On more than one occasion, we have called in a last-minute tamale to-go order from Las Delicias for a party hosted in our home. They please any crowd.
Aside from solid a la carte offerings (tacos, tamales, tortas, ceviche, quesadillas), Las Delicias has a lengthy “Especialidades de la Cocina” menu, including a variety of surf or turf options. We were pleased by the fattiness of the carnitas dinner plate ($7.99), a chopped pork dish slow-cooked in lard until the meat gets stringy and tender.
Our friend ordered breakfast for dinner: huevos
We sampled the horchata ($1.99), a sweet rice drink mixed with cinnamon, nutmeg and vanilla. It was refreshing and milky and melded well with the generally salty nature of Las Delicias’ food. On the drink front, we were glad to find an El Topo Chico carbonated mineral water ($1) on the shelves of the
3401 Pike Ave.
North Little Rock
The top display freezer by the checkout contains Arcoiris popsicles made with mango, coconut, tamarind, strawberry and kiwi, among others. If you get there early enough, you can peruse the glass case of pan dulce (
9 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily.
Imported and domestic beers, credit cards accepted.