Lindsey Millar
CEVICHE: From Flying Fish.

Flying Fish is surely one of the most popular nonchain restaurants in Little Rock, and I’ve been a frequent patron since it opened in the River Market District. Over that time, I can’t remember seeing anyone other than me order one of the best things on the menu: the shrimp and tilapia ceviche ($10.50).

You make ceviche by marinating raw fish in citrus, which causes the fish’s proteins to denature, lending it the texture of “cooked” fish. It’s not and carries the same risks eating raw sushi or poke does. Serious Eats offers excellent background on the dish and how it’s prepared.

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Flying Fish’s version is shrimp and tilapia chunks, marinated in lime and garlic; onion; diced tomatoes and jalapeno. Sliced avocado goes on top with a garnish of cilantro. It has a spicy seafood cocktail vibe, ideal for dipping the fresh tortilla chips served on the side. KATV featured Flying Fish’s recipe on its website several years ago.

It’s listed on the menu as a starter, but it easily makes a meal.

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