The Mighty Rib Illustration: Phillip Rex Huddleston

Cornucopia (noun): an abundant supply of good things of a specified kind.

Each month, I will be writing about a cornucopia of food topics, which include a recap of my eating adventures, food and drink news, my general thoughts on the Central Arkansas culinary scene, and a quick Top 10 list. So, with that in mind, let’s get to it.

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Chicken & Dumplings Friday at The Faded Rose

Kevin Shalin

Lunchtime on Fridays at The Faded Rose is all about chicken and dumplings. In fact, it’s not uncommon to see the special on just about every table throughout the lunch shift. Faded’s version eats more like a hearty soup than the traditional broth-based variety, which means the base is both thicker and creamier. Pieces of chicken and rectangular shaped, rolled dumplings with a nice, toothsome bite fill most of the bowl. Bits of carrots make an appearance, as does fresh parsley, along with a subtle heat thanks to what I’m guessing is a touch of cayenne. Staff will offer up a complimentary loaf of Leidenheimer with your meal. Take it. The crusty loaf is perfect for sopping up remnants of the chicken and dumplings and ensures that an office nap is in your near future.

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Fried chicken at Chinese Kitchen

Kevin Shalin
Chinese Kitchen, the predominantly takeout restaurant housed next door to The Pantry West off Rodney Parham Road, has been serving simple, no frills Chinese food to a loyal base of customers for the past 47 years. Let that sink in. Forty-seven years! I guess consistent, affordable food has a way of appealing to folks for four-plus decades. The menu is filled with classics, but there might not be a better dish than the Warr Shui Guy. Thin chicken breast is heavily coated, fried right, covered with a thin brown gravy, and then hit with some crushed peanuts. A lunch portion comes with the ever-popular fried rice and checks in at $6.36. Insane. If you’ve never been, go.

And more fried chicken at Goku Ramen Bar

Kevin Shalin
Fried chicken was also one of the highlights from my first trip to Goku Ramen Bar in Maumelle. The fast casual, order-at-the-counter restaurant is tucked in a retail strip off the main boulevard, so it is a touch hidden. Once you do find it, I highly recommend ordering the rice bowl with fried chicken, as well as the ramen bowl with braised pork. With the latter, you have the option of pork, chicken or vegetable broth. Go with the pork. It’s flavorful and pairs well with the accompanying protein, boiled egg, green onion, Napa cabbage and corn. My only knock was with the egg, as I prefer a soft-boiled variety with a gooey yolk instead of my hard-boiled half that resided in the broth. As for the rice bowl? They were not stingy with the deep-fried pieces of breast meat chicken, nor were they with the white rice, however, I wish there had been a more substantial drizzle of teriyaki sauce to cut down on the dish’s dryness. All and all, I left Goku quite content. Will I rush back across the river for the food? Probably not, but if I lived in the area, this restaurant would unquestionably be in my regular rotation.

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Baja Grill is nacho Nirvana

Kevin Shalin
If you find yourself in a bad mood, just mosey on over to Baja Grill for an order of Cuban Nachos. Make sure to bring a friend or be ready to tote home a to-go box. Truth be told, the mountain of tortilla chips smothered in smoked pork shoulder, queso, guacamole, and a host of other ingredients could feed up to four people, especially with you’re also sucking down margaritas. Listen, I’ve written about these nachos ad nauseam through the years, but frankly, I don’t care. They’re the best nachos in the area, and I figure the more people that know this, the better. It’s all about spreading joy.

Rabbit at Red Moon Tavern

Kevin Shalin

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Keep an eye out for Red Moon Tavern’s new specials. They typically run three days each week and really help showcase Chef Michael Easley’s talent and creativity. This was the case with his Arkansas Rabbit Pot Pie, which provided a plentiful portion of rabbit meat, Wye Mountain Mushrooms, a creamy fennel seed sauce and house-made biscuit. Peas and carrots also made an appearance because it wouldn’t be a proper pot pie without them. The decision to feature the biscuit instead of a more traditional pie crust topper was a brilliant move, as it really helped put the focus on the rabbit and sauce.

Good times at Murry’s Dinner Playhouse
Kevin Shalin

What in the world took me so long to check out Murry’s Dinner Playhouse? What a treasure. Murry’s old school vibe and intimate setting made for a wonderful Saturday night as we took in dinner and show with friends. We were there to check out “Honky Tonk Angels,” co-starring Arkansas Times’ very own Brooke Carter Wallace. Brooke and the cast killed it, and while the show just wrapped up a month-long run, I did want to put in a general plug for this Little Rock institution. Visit the website and see what shows are coming down the pike. Oh, and this is a food column, so you know I better make mention of the food. The $44 ticket includes a delightful buffet experience, complete with options like chicken fried chicken, pasta, salad and mashed potatoes, just to name a few. Listen, this isn’t fine dining, and frankly, I don’t want it to be. The food is fine. Paired with great entertainment and a full bar (additional cost), it made for such a fun Saturday night.

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Tidbits, openings, and closings

Red Bowl Noodle & Dim Sum (9700 N. Rodney Parham Road) opened in early April at the space previously occupied by Homer’s West. I’ve yet to go but early reports speak of solid food with various service issues that need to be ironed out. Hope this happens, as we could use a reliable dim sum restaurant in Little Rock. Ownership would be wise to embrace social media. As things currently stand, the Red Bowl’s online presence is nonexistent, which is a bad move.

Heather Baber-Roe and Craig Roe, owners of Baja Grill, Rober and Valhalla, are dead set on making Benton a culinary destination. The two just announced that their next project, Revival, is coming to Benton in May 2023. No location announced, but here’s the blurb on their Facebook page: “Craft burgers. Clever cocktails. Creative wings. Loaded fries. Home of the “Sausage Dog.” Vast beer list. Craveable bar fare. Brick oven pizza.” These two know a thing or ten about running restaurants, so I have no doubt in Revival’s future success.

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Don’t look now, but Sheridan, the small town located forty minutes south of Little Rock, just got itself another restaurant. Lady Birds Cafe (120 W, Center Street) has a full breakfast and lunch menu. It looks promising, as does the new-ish Mill Town Coffee Co. I’m guessing a short road trip is in my future.

North Little Rock’s Diamond Bear Brewing Company will soon be teaming up with Conway’s Ol’ Bart’s Southern Eats for barbecue at the brewery. Stay tuned for more details.

Argenta’s Dogtown Throwdown is back, as is the lunch buffet at Star of India.

Do you like cupcakes? I mean, do you really like cupcakes? If so, then I have an event for you.

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There’s a sign up at the old Mellow Mushroom space off Chenal Parkway saying that Walk-On’s is coming soon. No word on an expected opening date.

The Little Rock Whataburger location is officially open. I’m a born and raised Texan and can tell you that for a fast-food chain, Whataburger is pretty darn solid. With that being said, there has been less than enthusiastic sentiment regarding the food at the Arkansas locations. We shall see how the newest location goes over with locals.

The Rogue Roundabout is getting close to opening. The much-anticipated Conway microbrewery and restaurant is testing out beers and menu items, and should be ready for a grand opening in late May.

Longtime favorite Delicious Temptations will be expanding in the very near future. The restaurant recently took over the space next door, which will eventually add 2,000 square feet to its footprint. Kitchen and various dining room updates are also expected, as is the addition of a full bar.

And Finally … My Top 10 Restaurant Appetizers in the Little Rock Area

  1. Baked Bacon Wrapped Dates at The Pantry
  2. Smoked Salmon Dip at Cheers in the Heights
  3. Dragon Eggs at Kemuri
  4. Shell Belly Sliders at Brood & Barley
  5. Quail Lollies at Table 28
  6. Triple Dipper at Baja Grill
  7. Pão de Queijo (cheese bread) at Café Bossa Nova
  8. Fried Pickle Chips at Copper Mule Table & Tap
  9. Street Corn Dip at The Fold
  10. Spring Crudités at Red Moon Tavern

That’s it from me. See you in May!