The first thing we need to tell you about Faby’s, which has two
locations in Conway, is the tortillas — hot, soft tortillas that are
handmade from scratch each day. They’re as flavorful as a good savory
pie crust, but not so much that they distract from whatever you put them
with. And that’s far from all Faby’s has to offer.

We’ve been a few times and had the opportunity to try many of their
items. One great starter is the fajita queso ($5.49). Like all good
restaurants, it serves chips and salsa to you when you’re seated, and
the chips are hot and fresh and thin and the salsa is thick with
tomatoes
and cumin. Add fajita queso and you have a meal. That’s a very thick
white cheese dip with chunks — big, half-inch cubes — of beef (or
chicken if you want) fajita meat in there. Because the chips are thin,
it’s a little more than they can scoop up, but there’s a spoon with it
so you can top your chip with the thick mess. Good eating.

Faby’s also does a tortilla soup that’s a rich tomato and onion broth,
with an undercurrent of paprika and black pepper that’s just enough to
jump-start your sinuses if you let it. But just enough.

Another favorite, the supreme burrito ($6.25), comes covered in a big
pile of tomatoes and lettuce and peppers and sour cream. Hidden under
the vegetation is a thick burrito full of ground beef and what they call
“gravy sauce” that works well as a topping. And we really enjoyed the
pollo Acapulco ($7.49). It’s a chicken breast sauteed in white wine and
butter and mushrooms and onions and cilantro, covered in Jack cheese and
served up with refried beans and rice and, yeah, those awesome
tortillas (they’ll bring you about as many as you please, thank
goodness).

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Faby’s likes to stuff items with other things — and stuff them full. The
fajita beef quesadilla ($6.49) is not a flat affair; instead, it’s a
pocket full of tender beef fajita meat that’s just a little too puffed
up for dipping in something else. But, hey, that’s what your fork’s for.
Then there’s the fried stuffed avocado (which, oddly, we’ve only seen
at a handful of restaurants in Conway). Faby’s offers two, a shrimp
version and a chicken version. We tried the chicken one ($7.50), which
came with rice and beans and a beef fajita soft taco (in this case,
covered in that strange cheese roux they call gravy). It appears they
split an avocado, cook up fajita-grade chicken, and pack it and a good
amount of Manchego cheese and perhaps some other white melted goodness
inside the avocado where the pit once was. Then they put it back
together, wrap it in more cheese, batter it and deep-fry it. What you
get is a very creamy interior punctuated by a bit of cheese-soaked
chicken within a crispy crust. Fattening to be sure, but remarkably
tasty.

We never quite made it to dessert, somehow. But Faby’s has a very full
dessert list with dulce de leche and sopapillas. And somehow we keep
forgetting to order a couple of items that have intrigued us, such as
the mushroom-stuffed chile relleno or the quail. That’s the problem with
Faby’s — the menu’s not quite as thick as a phone book but almost. If
you’re indecisive, it can take a half-hour to make up your mind.
Fortunately, they don’t mind if you take your time.

Faby’s

Conway
1023 Front St.
501-513-1199

2915 Dave Ward
501-329-5151

Quick bite
Faby’s also does Continental cuisine, with tasty house-made
sauce. We’ve enjoyed the shrimp alfredo and a salmon and lemon butter
special served over pasta.

Hours
11 a.m.- 9 p.m. Monday through Saturday, 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Sunday.

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Other info
Credit cards accepted. No alcohol.