… Than touring the many diners of New England. This morning, it was the Modern, in Pawtucket, R.I., described by some as a “gourmet” diner. That means that, in addition to the usual, they serve the likes of cheese grits with lobster, ginger and pecan pancakes, fried polenta with Italian sausage and lots of other creative turns on diner fare.

The place is mobbed for brunch, but service is speedy. Below you’ll see my choice. They take a split “Portuguese muffin,” as thick as an English muffin, but with a denser texture and a slightly sweet taste. Sauteed onions and sweet peppers are piled on top. Then slices of spicy Portuguese sausage. Then a couple of eggs. Then three kinds of cheese. Alongside, you get a mountain of home fries.

Price: $7.95.

Two greasy thumbs up.